When we were deciding where to take my sister Elaine, who was coming to Japan for the first time, one place was essentially a no-brainer. Most folks that are familiar with Japan recommend that any first time visitor should go to Kyoto above any other place.

Kyoto is practically a must place to visit if you come to Japan. It has all the history you would expect, with ancient temples, shrines, and castles.  But most of Kyoto is modern, or let’s say post-war, so very similar to other Japanese cities in that regard. I will recommend a few temples or shrines to see that I consider the best, but there are so many others that you will be overwhelmed quickly trying to decide which ones to visit. 

Here are some of the places we visited.

Kiyomizu-dera — A stunning temple complex set on a hillside, surrounded by a forest.

We arrived by bus at Kiyomizumichi, and walked from there to the temple.  There are many tourist shops and restaurants on the route to the temple.  When you come upon Niomon Gate, you know you have arrived at the main entrance.  You will need to buy a ticket to enter - cash.  Climb the steps at the gates and follow the crowds. The views from the temple "stage", or main hall, are truly amazing, especially in the spring and fall.  Wander around, as there are quite a few temples here, as well as the Sanjunoto, or three storied pagoda.  After the main hall look for the path down towards Otonowa-no-taki, a little waterfall with three streams of water.  Drink from one using the ladle.  Each steam provides a particular kind of good fortune - love, longevity, or success.

Kinkaku-ji - Temple of the Golden Pavilion

In my opinion the prettiest temple of them all. The setting is beautiful with the golden temple on a pond with surrounding gardens. The temple is located in the northwestern part of Kyoto.  We came by bus from our hotel near Gion.  Kinkaku-ji was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. Visiting on a good weather day is best because in the full sun your pictures of the golden temple will be spectacular.

Fushimi Inari Taisha - Tunnel of Color

I visited this Shinto shrine decades ago but could not visit it on our last trip unfortunately. So, no pictures. (I learned the hard way not to publish pictures taken by other people.) Sad. Anyway, it is a rather unique complex as it includes the famous tunnel of red torii gates - Sembon Torii - and the surrounding forest and Mount Inari. It is solidly on my top three list of temples and shrines to visit.

Nojo-jo — Stoic and underrated ancient castle and grounds.

Nojo Castle was a place on my list to visit when we visited Kyoto earlier this year, and fortunately we had the time to go there. The grounds are rather large, with nice gardens surrounding the main building. They offer a very informative self-tour; you can buy tickets there. Lots of colorful rooms and history explanations in English are available.

Nishiki Market — Soup to nuts, pots to pans, it has everything.

Now for something completely different. This market is basically a long narrow covered mall filled with little shops. Many of the shops sell food, so you can snack along the way. Great to do on a rainy day. Not a bad place to grab some lunch as you walk. There are connecting areas with more shopping so fun to explore them. Extra points if you can find Mipig Cafe.

Pontocho —Awesome area for a traditional Japanese Kaiseki dinner.

A good place to check out at night, Pontocho is basically an alley that runs parallel to the river. It is known for its restaurants featuring exclusively Japanese cuisine, though I think I did see one or two other restaurants that snuck in there. Some restaurants have an outdoor deck from which you can see the river. Look into which restaurant you want to visit, and then select a Plan B in case your first choice is full.

Gion Walk — Traditional shops and restaurants in Edo period architecture.

This is the old area of town, with a mix of shops and restaurants. Start at Gion-Shijo station. On the other side of the river is a more modern shopping area. But you want to walk the other direction towards Yasaka Shrine. Look for Hanamikoji Street - turn right. Old style buildings line the street; go as far as Gion Corner.  There are two theaters there where you can catch a live Geisha show. They sell tickets out front, but better to check online before you go.  

There are plenty of temples in the backstreets of this area, and a new large hotel is being built there too. I like this better than Philosophers’ Walk, though you might want to check that out too.