Kyu-Iwasaki-tei Gardens, Turn of the Century Estate for the President of Mitsubishi

Curriculum: The Sights, Sounds, Smells, and Tastes of Japan
Published: 2024-11-09 by Charlie Samra
Kyu-Iwasaki-tei Gardens, Turn of the Century Estate for the President of Mitsubishi

Kyu-Iwasaki-tei Gardens is essentially remains of the once expansive estate of Hisaya Iwasaki, the third president of the Mitsubishi Group. The land upon which the estate was built was purchased by Iwasaki in 1896, a few years after becoming president.  Originally there were around 20 buildings contructed on the land, many of which were used by house servants.  Today, only three buildings survive on the estate, the western style main residence, the Swiss styled billard building and one other Japanese style building. The property has been reduced in size by around one half, and is considered an Important Cultural Asset by the Japanese government.

Grand front entrance to the residence
Grand front entrance to the residence

After World War II Japan's zaibatsu financial and industrial groups were dismantled, Iwasaki lost many of his holdings, including his estate. He lived the rest of his life in seclusion on his Suehiro Farm in Chiba. Iwasaki passed away at the age of 90 in 1955.

Hisaya Iwasaki, 1st President of the Mitsubishi Group
Hisaya Iwasaki, 1st President of the Mitsubishi Group
Iwasaki Family picture in the sun anteway facing the gardens
Iwasaki Family picture in the sun anteway facing the gardens

As with many properties after the war was over, the residence was seized by the Supreme Commander of the Allied Powers. It was eventually returned to the Japanese government, and was used as the Judicial Research and Training Institute of the Supreme Court until 1970.

Architecture

Iwasaki decided to build his new home in the architectural styles he had encountered while attending the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia.  There, many different architectures were represented in the large estates that dotted the Philadelphia main line and other areas around the city, as well as the countryside further west and north.  Having grown up in the Philadelphia area I can attest that there are some wonderful period examples from which Iwasaki could choose from, such as the Joseph Sinnott Mansion (aka the Rathalla) in Bryn Mawr, and the Dolobran in Haverford.

Iwasaki selected Josiah Conder to design and build his estate. Conder, originally from England, had made a name for himself designing a number of buildings in Tokyo after he arrived in 1877 at the invitation of the Japanese government.  Considered an architect prodigy in England, Conder was only 24 years old when he first came to Japan.

Conder infused the residence with a mixture of Jacobean and Ionic architecture styles.  Middle Eastern motifs were incorporated into the interior of the home.  Together he blended the architectures into a strikingly attractive western style manor that drew raves and frowns from the pundits of the period.  

Back side of the residence with dual columned walkways
Back side of the residence with dual columned walkways
Window side of the building, facing the gardens
Window side of the building, facing the gardens

From my perspective as a non-architect, when I looked at all sides of the residence I saw three different styles.  The front of the building is what I would refer to as classic British look - and with its high narrow windows, and grand entranceway framed with columns; these are characteristics of the Jacobean style.  On another side of the building, the lower level is an enclosed anteway with plenty of windows so the occupants could view the garden.  In the back of the building is yet another completely different design, with columns at the first and second levels, framing a full balcony on the second level and a covered patio on the first level. I believe this is the side that emulates the Ionic style.  Again, I am no expert, so go see for yourself!

Hallway in the heart of the residence
Hallway in the heart of the residence
Hall and stairway with beautifully carved columns
Hall and stairway with beautifully carved columns
Ornate stairway railing and ceiling
Ornate stairway railing and ceiling

Jacobean styles also pertain to the furniture inside the residence, of which there are some wonderful pieces. Note that many of the rooms are empty, so you'll have to use your imagination for those.

This cabinet was made at Howard & Sons founded in London, Britain, in 1820.
This cabinet was made at Howard & Sons founded in London, Britain, in 1820.
Beautiful example of the period furniture
Beautiful example of the period furniture

Finally, there is not too much to say about either of the Billard room building and the Japanese style building. When I visited entrance to the Billard room was blocked, but the door was open so you could look inside.  

I think what interests me most about this estate is that it was designed by Conder, who frankly was a legend in his time. I think I'll look into his other works and write a new article on that sometime soon.

Location