Ichirō Hatoyama's Residence, Hatoyama Hall, in Otowa

Hatoyama Hall is one of those important residences in Tokyo that many people overlook. Some Japanese folks may know of the Hatoyama family because of their legacy, but your typical tourist will have no idea who they were.  Include me among those who knew nothing about the Hatoyama's until I stumbled on their little palace in Google Maps.

Construction of the beautiful English-style house on Otowa Hill in Bunkyo Ward was completed in 1924, the year after the Great Kanto Earthquake. The estate was commissioned by Ichirō Hatoyama, and built on property that was inherited by his father.

Ichiro's father was Kazuo Hatoyama was a high-level politician for a short term right before the turn of the century.  He also served as principal at Waseda University for seventeen years.  His son Ichirō followed in his footsteps into politics, which would be a recurring theme in the Hatoyama family.During the war years, Ichirō was opposed to Japan going to war, and in 1943 left his political life behind, as well as Hatoyama Hall, moving to his summer home in Karuizawa. After the war Ichirō was persuaded to move back to Tokyo and start working inside the government again. 

The Allied bombing had taken its toll on Hatoyama Hall, so when the war ended significant repairs were needed. So when Ichiro returned to Tokyo he stayed at Shojiro Ishibashi's Tokyo residence. Ishibashi, a good friend of Ichiro, was a wealthy businessman and founder of Bridgestone Corporation. There was a Hatoyama family connection with Ishibashi also.  In late 1942, Hatoyama's son Iichirō married Yasuko Ishibashi, the daughter of Shojiro Ishibashi. Ishibashi became an important financial backer for Hatoyama as well as an advisor on Japan's post-war economic development thereafter.

Ichiro moved back into Hatoyama Hall after it was repaired. From that point his private residence was often used as a meeting place, hosting discussions that led to the formation of the Japan Liberal Party in late 1945.  

In the subsequent years, significant policy discussions were held between representatives of the Democratic Liberal Party and the Democratic Party at Hatoyama Hall, which led to the formation of the Liberal Party in 1950.

Ichirō Hatoyama suffered a cerebral infarction (stroke) in 1951, which left him partially paralyzed. 

Despite this physical challenge, he made a remarkable political comeback. As leader of the Japan Democratic Party (DLP), he was appointed Prime Minister in 1954, and the following year played a key role in the formation of the Liberal Democratic Party (LDP), of which he became the first president and prime minister in 1955. His condition required him to use a cane and adjust his lifestyle to manage the aftereffects of the stroke during his time in office.

In October 1956, he restored diplomatic ties with the Soviet Union, which was his last significant achievement before he left office at the end of that same year.

Ichirō Hatoyama died in his Hatoyama Hall house on 7 March 1959.  He will be remembered as a staunch conservative who favored pardons for some of the Class A war criminals who had been sentenced to life imprisonment by the Tokyo War Crimes Tribunal. He hoped to revise the Constitution to remove Article 9 and eventually remilitarize Japan. 

After Ichiro's death, the building fell into a state of serious disrepair, but in 1995 it underwent extensive restoration and was restored to its former glory. During the restoration, rooms were created to commemorate Ichiro, his wife Kaoru, an educator, and his son Iichiro, and were opened to the public.

There is much to see, including the English-style exterior in front of the rose garden, the stained glass with a pigeon motif, the Adam-style reception room, and the statues of Kazuo and Haruko by Fumio Asakura.

The hall was renovated and opened to the public in 1996, and is currently owned by Yukio Hatoyama’s mother Yasuko, who is a daughter of the founder of Bridgestone Corp. 

About the Estate

The building's architect was Okada Shinichi, who also designed the Kabuki-za. The facade is composed of natural stone, with large French windows on the ground floor solarium. On the first floor, the windows and doors fill the entire width of the building.

There are currently three memorial rooms open to the public, one dedicated to Ichiro, another to his wife Kaoru, and yet another to their son, Iichiro Hatoyama. In addition, the garden features sculptures of Kazuo Hatoyama and his wife, Haruko.

The rose garden is extensive, and should definitely be on your list to visit during the spring and fall.

Controversy

When Yukio Hatoyama was elected prime minister 2009, Hatoyama Hall became a tourist magnet. Tourists would flock to the estate, some just sightseers, and others as protesters against some of his policies.

The odd thing that is worth mentioning is that Goth loli fashion in the hall was prohibited. Apparently a magazine article was written that stated that you can take very cute photos at the hall dressed in Goth Lolita fashion. This was something the building staff did not want to become a trend.

Another article came out about somebody who brought Goth Lolita dress to the hall, and changed clothes in the restroom. This caused folks waiting to use the restroom to become somewhat agitated.  You can't make this stuff up, I know.

Oh, and in case you are like me and don't know what Goth Lolita fashion is, here is a brief description. 

Gothic Lolita, often referred to as "GothLoli" (ゴスロリ) in Japan, is a substyle of the broader Lolita fashion movement, which combines Victorian and Rococo aesthetics with modern Japanese pop culture influences.  Dresses are predominantly black, but often accented with white, deep reds, purples, or dark blues.  Now you know!